Friday, June 27, 2008

Moving in many ways

Rioting indeed there was, but nothing of the violent hooliganism I had come to expect because of the skin headed British Futballers that are ubiquitous in the UK. After the game, with jubilant krauts running amok in the streets, the turkish crescent and red emblazoned cars full of subdued fans would have to pass through the throng, and instead of jeers, the germans would approach and say "Gut Gespiel"- good game- and shake hands. Contrary to what H and I expected, the Turkish population here have been Germans for at least 2 generations and so the rivalry is heated in a friendly instead of rabid way. It was beautiful. And apparently the German population is still wary about flying the Deutsche flag because of what happened almost 70 years ago, and only with the 2006 Euro Cup did people begin to take public pride in their country again. Even now, some of the flags have a swastika with a red X over it to show that the pride of now remembers the shame of then. We watched the game with our German friend Torsten and when he quietly explained the flag situation both Harrison and I were affected because we had no idea of the guilt that still pervades the vast majority of the people. This is such a beautiful country,- people, food, landscape, most of the history- and to see that they felt somewhat ashamed to be german still brought on this mixed feeling of pity and agreement that is completely unique for me to this place. Today H and I will try to visit the Dachau Concentration Camp, so I only expect more of this.

We have just had a traditional Bavarian Breakfast of Weiss Wurst (Veal Sausage) and are relaxing in an internet cafe. Yesterday was transport intensive, taking us from Cologne to Basel Switzerland, to Zurich, to Munich. We drank Weissbier in the restaurant car of the train overlooking the hills and forests of Bavarian in the seeting sun. Our hostel is an encampment in the Bottanical Gardens of Munich, complete with Christmas lights and a Beer Garden. Already Germany is my favorite county of the trip.

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